A Walnut Tree Grows in Guerneville
Four incredible days visiting and tasting with some of the best winemakers in Sonoma County.
Last week, I spent four glorious days with RogueVines in Sonoma County. It was truly a trip of a lifetime, one I’d only dreamt of having someday. Much to my delight, that dream came to fruition after visiting seventeen wineries, meeting eleven winemakers, and driving over 300 miles with John, Ryan, and Neil. I watched these new memories hatch what would arguably become our best tasting album of all time, filled with producers and wines we’ve long considered as “greatest hits” of RogueVines’ cumulative consumption.
THE STORY
I wish I could say it was our first time together as a group in Wine Country, but the guys had their own trip here last fall, a chance I had missed because I was separately traveling in Spain. There was one story from that guys’ trip that had frequently popped up during the year — they kept mentioning Porter-Bass and the je ne sais quoi experienced immediately upon arriving. Stefie, you’ll have to go next time, they’d say. You had to be there… we’d never seen Ryan look so relaxed. After John had sent me photo evidence (see below), I understood what they meant to a certain degree, but what made this place different from anywhere else? I desperately wanted answers.
Fast forward to October 2024, when we piggybacked on John’s trip to the Bay Area for his law school reunion and thoughtfully orchestrated the most epic Sonoma wine excursion to match prior year’s energy. We earmarked our “arrival” day to taste at Bedrock Vineyard in Glen Ellen and later at the Hirsch tasting room in Healdsburg. Our first full day comprised a “Sonoma Coast” itinerary, starting with Littorai followed by Joseph Swan, Porter-Bass, and Senses, concluding with Bohème. We spent the next day in “Sonoma Town(s)” with Sixteen 600, Extradimensional, Tidings, and Laurel Glen. The final day had us visit more of Sonoma at Ramey, Freeman, Red Car, and Scherrer before Ryan, Neil, and I were due at the airport for redeye flights home.
I usually spend the first day of any trip finding my bearings, especially in a new time zone. I thoroughly enjoyed our time with Chris and Emily at Bedrock Vineyard (see details under Itinerary) as well as the many special cuvées tasted at Hirsch. What helped tremendously were the breathtaking hikes John had planned each morning, before any tasting marathons were to commence. Like a daily yoga routine, the brisk California air anchored us with the invigorating aromas from redwood forestlands and eucalyptus groves — getting our blood pumping for another jam-packed day.
After tasting the next day in eyeshot of their estate vineyards at Littorai and Joseph Swan, we finally arrived in Guerneville at the noble grounds of Porter-Bass, the unmistakable site about which I had heard so much. It was as bucolic as the guys had described, as those pastel-colored chairs beckoned us gently into an inexplicable synchronicity underneath that fabled walnut tree.
The moment I sat down, I took it all in. A makeshift table formed atop two old barrels. A chalkboard scribed with the day’s offerings. An array of opened bottles loosely plugged with corks. A bowl of freshly harvested walnuts with strewn nutcrackers. A prism of Sonoma sunshine peeking through leafy boughs. An endearing Sue Bass and her pragmatic sensibilities. I spent most of our time speechless at Porter-Bass, in tacit agreement that this was one special place indeed. IYKYK. And now I knew.
As we wistfully left Porter-Bass to make our next appointment in Occidental, I heard Ryan singing the lyrics to “Walnut Tree” by Keane on the drive over. Walnut trees often symbolize wisdom, intellectual growth, protection, nourishment, abundance, and longevity, with their strong wood and resilient nature underscoring these ideas. So, I reflected on our little tasting crew and my experience at Porter-Bass. Then it hit me. Visiting Guerneville to taste with Sue will always be a welcomed pleasure, but what if the ultimate walnut tree has been among us all along?
For me, RogueVines fully embodies this proverbial walnut tree. I’ve learned so much through the nearly six years of drinking together. Their company has inspired a heartfelt friendship, stimulated the mind, and most importantly, nourished my soul. When I cast any self-doubt, these folks remain my biggest cheerleaders (Lauren and Dina, included!). Our weekly meetings ground me in routine and comfort, ringing truer while we sipped wine underneath the Porter-Bass walnut tree.
I think of RogueVines whenever I hear Fleetwood Mac, as their songs act as our de facto soundtrack, almost always bellowing in the background when we meet. Even on the road this week, there was a friendly spat as to whether we’d play Rumours or Mirage on the way back from dinner. By cosmic alignment, I encountered these little easter eggs during our trip — like soft taps on my shoulder serving as reminders of home while away from home. Little lies, everywhere with Christine McVie. Landslides and dreams with Stevie Nicks. Going your own way with Lindsey Buckingham. Somehow, they were accompanying nearly every stop on our itinerary.
During our final dinner in Sonoma at Glen Ellen Star, I asked the guys about the perceived turning points during their respective journeys in wine — that is, when they may have had that a-ha moment or when all things wine eventually clicked for them. As I was about to share why my question at all, it was no coincidence that “The Chain” came on. I was filled with immense gratitude, not only for the opportunity for this trip but for the serendipity of meeting these wonderful people and what they’ve given me over these years: confidence, sense of purpose, and fellowship.
As we waited for our entrées, I looked for words to explain all this but fell short. Instead, I was overcome with emotion, voice breaking and tears running down my face. With one day left, I couldn’t believe how extraordinary our Sonoma adventure had been, one I’d consider inimitable — the kind of trip I wouldn’t be able to do with just anyone. Everything was easy, implicit, sui generis: of its own kind. The guys nodded in agreement.
Maybe RogueVines was our own version of Fleetwood Mac. Each musician of the legendary band would undoubtedly perform well and find plenty of success solo, but the beauty is in the alchemy formed when they come together. Even our name RogueVines has similar implications. A singular rogue vine could be perceived as annoying or unworthy, but a collective of tendrils twirls a different story.
On our own, we each experience wine just fine — we get by. With our forces combined, we become the greatest synecdoche, a dynamic sum greater than our individual parts. This could not be truer with our interactions with the various industry folks we had the joy of meeting in Sonoma. Neil’s strength comes in the form of introspective inquiries and well-composed photographs. John tends to ask about geography, vintage, and producers in kindred, while Ryan focuses on the technical aspects of viticulture and winemaking. I round it out in seeking origin stories, personal philosophies, and decision making.
Our visits are intimate and elevated because we conduct ourselves like a jazz quartet. We riff on an inherent understanding of each other’s energy, knowing what we’re all going to say or do before we say or do said things. Everyone gets their time in the spotlight, as we tee each other up when the occasion strikes. These profound, ineffable experiences I will treasure forever.
Like the guys had said about last year’s trip, you really had to be there, so I hope my attempt to chronicle it all can illustrate some of the unforgettable magic from our four days in Sonoma Wine Country. Enjoy!
“You Make Loving Fun”
by Fleetwood Mac from Rumours
I never did believe in miracles
But I've a feeling it's time to try
I never did believe in the ways of magic
But I'm beginning to wonder why
THE ITINERARY
BEDROCK WINE CO. & DESIRE LINES
CALLING CARDS
Bedrock Wine Co.
primary mission-driven operation1 dedicated to preserving and rehabilitating old vineyards around California
wines are made from thoughtfully farmed vineyards with diverse terroirs and rich viticultural history, all focused on ideal ripeness, freshness, and aromatics
their old vine vineyards are primarily planted to Zinfandel while also to Mourvèdre (Mataro), Carignan, Petit Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Grenache, Sémillon, Gewürztraminer, Trousseau Gris, and Riesling along with dozens of others; other bottlings include Syrah, rosé, and barrel-fermented whites as well as a slew of new possibilities from Oakville, Mendocino, Amador, Lodi, Contra Costa, and every corner of Sonoma
Morgan Twain-Peterson and Chris Cottrell host Bedrock Wine Conversations, one of the best wine podcasts out there — extraordinary rapport with each other and their guests (usually growers and winemakers)
Desire Lines
a desire line2 is a path made by the one walking it — often a path that diverts from the main trail, whether through an empty field to get from one street to another or a straight line up a mountain made by someone too impatient for switchbacks
inspired by pioneering California winemakers and their coming-of-age wines from the 1970s and 80s by way of native yeast fermentations, lots of whole-cluster use in many of our reds, barrel fermentation for our whites, and aging in primarily neutral oak and large format barrels
single vineyard Rieslings from various AVAs spanning northern and southern California along with various red varietal and blended cuvées
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: enjoying various cuvées by Under the Wire, Desire Lines, and Bedrock Wine Co. made with fruit from Bedrock Vineyard, the very vineyard we had the amazing fortune to visit and taste in person with Chris Cottrell and Emily Rasmussen — biggest thanks to them for their time and generosity 🫶
Notable: Bedrock Wine Co. 2022 ‘Heritage Red’ Papera Ranch Russian River Valley
Favorite: Desire Lines 2019 Mourvèdre ‘Experimental Series No 5: The General’
❧
HIRSCH VINEYARDS
CALLING CARD
founded in 1980 by winemaker David Hirsch to grow fruit and make site-specific wine, when he planted his first vines for this coastal estate, making it one of the oldest vineyards on the Sonoma Coast and later becoming one of the most sought-after sources for exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes
after 22 years focused on planting and farming, Hirsch made the decision to build a winery and start making his own wines, primary motivation being to become a better farmer, with more than 60 farming parcels spread out over 72 acres under his meticulous care
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: connecting the various maps and aerial photographs of the Hirsch estate with terroir, climate, and exposure with the various cuvées and single parcel bottlings we tasted through at the Hirsch tasting room
Notable: 2021 Pinot Noir ‘Maritime’ Sonoma Coast
Favorite: 2021 Pinot Noir ‘Block 8’ Sonoma Coast
❧
LITTORAI
CALLING CARD
founded by winemaker Ted Lemon, Littorai emphasizes biodynamic and organic farming practices with small-lot, handcrafted wines that reflet the unique terroirs of Northern California
particularly renowned for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which showcase a balance of elegance, depth, and complexity
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: tasting two single parcel wines whose vineyards our group would later visit that same day (‘May’s Canyon’ at Porter-Bass and B. A. Thieriot Vineyard with Senses Wines)
Notable: 2022 Chardonnay ‘May’s Canyon’ Sonoma Coast
Favorite: 2021 Pinot Noir B. A. Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast
❧
JOSEPH SWAN VINEYARDS
CALLING CARD
high-quality, terroir-driven wines from Sonoma County, with a strong reputation for its Pinot Noir and Zinfandel
founded by Joseph Swan in the 1960s, the winery is dedicated to sustainable practices and minimal intervention in winemaking as well as to craftsmanship and unique qualities of old-vine fruit
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: tasting various Trenton Estate Vineyard wines by Joseph Swan while overlooking the beautiful vineyard itself
Notable: 2014 Syrah Trenton Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley
Favorite: 2016 Pinot Noir Trenton Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley
❧
PORTER-BASS
CALLING CARD
family-owned and operated by Sue Bass and her son Luke, both who do everything from farming to winemaking to bottling — even fixing the tractor!
nine miles from the ocean, Porter-Bass is one3 of the most westerly vineyards in the Russian River Valley, making it a truly cool climate vineyard — this is further underscored by the forest of Redwood and Fir trees that surround the area, creating a distinct microclimate while protecting it from wind and contamination from other vineyards
known for crisp and fresh wines with minimal extraction, Porter-Bass shines immensely with their Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay as well as other lovely bottlings
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: chatting with Sue Bass under her family’s walnut tree as we tasted through a selection of Porter-Bass and Poco a Poco wines
Notable: Porter-Bass 2019 Zinfandel ‘Dot’s Garden’ Russian River Valley
Favorite: Poco a Poco 2021 Carignane Chapman Vineyard Mendocino County
❧
SENSES WINES
CALLING CARD
a dream4 of three childhood friends who partners with winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown to produced world-class wines from renowned vineyards planted by their families
Senses’ estate vineyards are located in the West Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley regions of Sonoma County, specifically just outside the town of Occidental where the three founders grew up
wines mostly include Chardonnay and Pinot Noir along with the occasional Cabernet Sauvignon
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: enjoying wines by Senses while exploring the guest villa embellished in the 2000s Italian Tuscan style at B. A. Thieirot Vineyard and saying hello to the horses living at the property’s stables
Notable: 2021 Chardonnay B. A. Thieriot Vineyard Sonoma Coast
Favorite: 2022 Pinot Noir Kanzler Vineyard Russian River Valley
❧
BOHÈME WINES
CALLING CARD
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: chatting with winemaker Kurt Beitler in person at the tasting room as well as randomly meeting another couple who happened to also be visiting from Jersey City!
Notable: 2021 Pinot Noir Occidental Hills West Sonoma Coast
Favorite: 2021 Pinot Noir English Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast
❧
WINERY SIXTEEN 600
CALLING CARD
small batch, single vineyard wines, exclusively from certified organic vineyards that are farmed by winemaker Phil Coturri and his vineyard management company Enterprise Vineyards
Sixteen 600 produces7 wines they love to drink and collect, including Grenache, Rhône varietals, field blends, as well as Cabernet and Zinfandel to honor their Sonoma heritage
The Wine Makers podcast, a RogueVines favorite, is also recorded at the Sixteen 600 tasting house and features wine experts Brian Casey, Sam Coturri, and Bart Hansen in conversation with host John Myers — TYSM for the shoutout during the latest episode with winemaker Peter Mathis!
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: tasting and chilling in old theatre seats while listening to our 🔥 vinyl pulls (Fleetwood Mac’s Rumours, The Steve Miller Band’s Children of the Future, Tom Tom Club’s self-titled album, and Amy Winehouse’s Frank)
Notable: 2019 ‘Val Rossi Hommage’ Sonoma Valley
Favorite: 2021 ‘Muchas Piedras’ Moon Mountain District
❧
EXTRADIMENSIONAL WINE CO. YEAH!
CALLING CARD
a believer in wine as a vehicle for transformation, winemaker Hardy Wallace is known8 for his deep dive into California Mourvèdre and for championing lesser known grape varieties that speak to the soul and stand with the world’s greatest wines
Extradimensional’s tasting notes and pairing suggestions are arguably some of the best in the biz, not limited to moments, emotions, sound effects, and specific cuisines/dishes — The Extradimensional Life podcast episodes on their wine releases does this especially well
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: Ryan giving us all readings from The Wild Unknown archetypes deck as well as Hardy Wallace giving the best sound effect tasting notes during our appointment
Notable: 2023 Barbera Shake Ridge Ranch
Favorite: 2023 Sémillon Bedrock Vineyard
❧
TIDINGS WINE
CALLING CARD
Reid Griggs is currently the winemaker at Stony Hill Vineyard, a historic family-owned winery known for its Chardonnay later acquired by the Lawrence Family
Tidings is Reid’s nights-and-weekends project9 focused on crafting Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah that reflect hte distinct ecology of where they are grown, to honor the history and character of the lands, and the people who steward it.
in pre-prohibition California, wines renowned for their purity were produced from the vine studded hillsides pictured here; with the vineyards on either side of Asbury Creek in Glen Ellen were abandoned until his family purchased a small portion of this original estate — they are planting a vineyard that honors this site and the classic wines of Sonoma Mountain
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: meeting Reid Griggs in person at his family’s vineyard and tasting his pitch perfect wines for the first time — big thanks to him for his time and hospitality!
Notable: 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Moonridge’ Moon Mountain District
Favorite: 2022 Syrah Bien Nacido ‘X-Block’ Santa Maria Valley
❧
LAUREL GLEN VINEYARD
CALLING CARD
best known10 for their focus on producing high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon, particularly from the Sonoma Mountain region in California
originally planted in the 1880s, the present-day vineyard was grown in the 1970s by Sonoma wine pioneer Patrick Campbell, who also developed the proprietary Laurel Glen clone of Cabernet Sauvignon, as the vineyard’s combination of high altitude, eastern exposure, rocky soils, and small diurnal temperature swings produce very distinctive wines
after 30 vintages, Patrick sold the vineyard and winery to a small group of wine lovers led by Bettina Sichel, whose family has been in the wine business in Europe for five generations, with viticulturalist Phil Coturri managing the vineyard
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: squeezing in one more tasting at Laurel Glen (thanks again, Juan Carlo!) before dinner at Glen Ellen Star
Notable: 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Estate’ Sonoma Mountain
Favorite: 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Estate’ Sonoma Mountain
❧
RAMEY WINE CELLARS
CALLING CARD
founded in 1996, David and Carla Ramey forged a new California winemaking style that paired old-world techniques with the premier fruit of Sonoma and Napa
the Ramey family has long-excelled at collaborating with other multigenerational winegrowers to make single vineyard wines as well as blends that showcase the defining characteristics of their sites
hailed as “Professor Chardonnay” by Wine Spectator, David has been making wine since the 1970s, his efforts having helped shape the way many wines in the United States are made today — some of his contributions to modern-day winemaking include: pioneering whole-cluster pressing of white grapes, the use of oxidized juice in white winemaking, sur lie aging of white wines in barrel, malolactic fermentation of Chardonnay, native yeast fermentations, and bottling without filtration
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: the fascinating aromatic interaction between the 2014 Cabernet from Pedregal Vineyard and the 2017 Syrah from Rodgers Creek — returning to the Syrah after smelling and tasting the Cabernet brought forth an intensified scent of smokiness and savory bacon fat
Notable: 2017 Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard Petaluma Gap
Favorite: 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Cooley Ranch Sonoma County
❧
FREEMAN VINEYARD & WINERY
CALLING CARD
founded by Ken and Akiko Freeman in 2001, Freeman has been a pioneer of cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, charting11 a course to the western edges of California winegrowing, where the influence of the Pacific Ocean shapes the character of the wines
the winery has helped to define a more balanced, sophisticated and thoughtful style of winemaking
from the first vintage, the Freeman style went against convention: while others pushed the limits of ripeness, Akiko and consulting winemaker Ed Kurtzman sought balance and refinement
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: learning that the bright acidity found in Freeman wines make them ideal for pairing with food and that Freeman wines have also been served at the White House on two occasions (that is, when the prime minister of Japan had visited during the Obama and Biden administrations)
Notable: 2021 Pinot Noir ‘Akiko’s Cuvée’ West Sonoma Coast
Favorite: 2021 Pinot Noir ‘Yu-Ki Estate’ West Sonoma Coast
❧
RED CAR WINE
CALLING CARD
a small farming and winemaking operation12 based in Sebastopol rooted int he vineyards and wines of the West Sonoma Coast
Red Car’s team farms and produces wine from six small and unique plots of land in the rural portions of Western Sonoma County, with a focus on varietals like Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: admiring and discovering the stories behind the thoughtful labels for this array of Red Car wines
Notable: 2021 Chardonnay ‘Estate’ Fort Ross-Seaview
Favorite: 2019 Syrah Sonoma Coast
❧
SCHERRER WINERY
CALLING CARD
since the winery’s first vintage in 1991, their goal13 has been to create handcrafted, full-flavored wines that express the personality of the unique Sonoma County vineyards where they are grown
winemaker Fred Scherrer first became known for Zinfandel from his father’s Alexander Valley vineyard
now his careful hand with Pinot Noir from the Russian River and Sonoma County has quietly gained attention and a steady following, along with Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Grenache that exemplify the bounty of Sonoma County vineyards
Grenache from Scherrer’s 2024 harvest, live in an old bladder press:
HIGHLIGHTS
Highlight: during the winery tasting, the Zinfandel was notably and deliberately served before the Pinot Noirs, a decision indicative of Scherrer’s distinctive style, which prioritizes balance, food friendliness, and age-ability
Notable: 2018 ‘Huntsman Red’ Sonoma County
Favorite: 2018 Zinfandel ‘Old & Mature Vines’ Scherrer Vineyard Alexander Valley
❧
THE FOOD & DRINK
Healdsburg
THE WINE WALL AT THE MATHESON
Highlight: squeezing in a 15-minute visit before dinner at Molti Amici
Notable: Bannister 2022 Scheurebe Alexander Valley
Favorite: Alpha Estate 2021 Xinomavro ‘Hedgehog Vineyard’ (Macedonia, Greece)
❧
MOLTI AMICI
Highlight: very well-composed, flavorful Italian dishes to share together or enjoy individually
Notable:
Favorite: Jimmy Nardello pepper pizza with Journeyman sausage, cipollini, agrodolce, & pestoBottle: Cameron 2019 Nebbiolo Willamette Valley
❧
MAISON HEALDSBURG
Highlight: finishing up the last pours from an open magnum of Red Car 2012 Syrah from Fort Ross-Seaview
Notable: a fun “industry” joint open until 2AM — great for pre- and post-meal libations by the bottle or glass
Favorite: Rootdown Cellars 2022 Savagnin Cole Ranch
❧
THE WURST
Highlight: all sauce offerings are made by hand
Notable: great for quick lunches between tasting appointments, especially in downtown Healdsburg
Favorite: weisswurst (white sausage with veal, pork, & spices) topped with the works (caramelized onions & sweet and hot peppers)
❧
Sebastopol
THE REDWOOD
Highlight: chanterelle toast with sherry cream, a dinner special we had which reminded me of poulet au vin jaune
Notable: The Redwood is an all-day kitchen, natural wine bar, and bottle shop all wrapped in one
Favorite: braised lamb shank (serves 2-3) with pearled couscous, red chermoula, & seasonal greensBottle: Sabelli-Frisch 2022 Counoise Claypool Vineyard Mokelumne River
❧
REGION
Highlight: discovering Carpenter, a new-to-me producer of Trousseau Gris from Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard in the Russian River Valley
Notable: Region is changing how wine is experienced and shared: connecting people to their region through wine, as they are showcasing 35+ producers in Sonoma County with 50+ wines by the taste, glass, or bottle
❧
Greater Sonoma
SONOMA PIZZA CO.
Highlight: ordering our pies ahead of time to pick up and eat in the car in order to save time between tasting appointments
Notable: this artisanal pizzeria serves wood-fired Neapolitan and Sonoma-style pies with dough cold-fermented for 72 hours
Favorite: The Tati with Fra’Mani mortadella, mozzarella, pistachios, frisée, chives, parsley, oregano, lemon, & garlic confit
❧
GLEN ELLEN STAR
Highlight: housemade rigatoni with pumpkin cacio e pepe, truffled Toma cheese, chanterelle mushrooms, Swiss chard, & roasted squash was almost too pretty to eat but absolutely delicious
Notable: Glen Ellen Star specializes in a wood-fire cooking technique that brings out the best flavors of their California inspired dishes
Favorite: brick chicken with chipotle glazed chicken, wild rice pilaf, butternut squash mole blanco, roasted delicata squash, & pomegranate salsaBottle: Emeritus Vineyards 2022 Pinot Noir ‘Hallberg Blanc’ [Blanc de Noirs] Russian River Valley
❧
On the Wings of a Pig from Bedrock Wine Co.
“Kurt Beitler’s Bohème Wines” by Alan Goldfarb from Edible Marin & Wine Country
“Laurel Glen Vineyard” from Sonoma Valley Wine