One-Two, Cha-Cha-Cha
Three extraordinary days exploring the Côte des Blancs appellation in Champagne.
The first cork I popped on French soil was in Champagne’s Côte des Blancs, where my dear friend MJ and I spent three days among the chalk and Chardonnay essential to the appellation’s raison d’être. It marked the prologue to a five-week sojourn that would carry me deeper into the heart of France, incidentally my first trip ever here: three weeks among the vines and fermentations of Burgundy’s harvest, and a final week wandering Paris, hopefully with my heart and notebooks overflowing with many stories.
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THE STORY
This trip to Champagne was particularly meaningful to us for a couple of reasons. Earlier this year, I’d put together a tutoring session for MJ on sparkling wine production, diving into the terroirs of Champagne, so for us finally walk those vineyards together would feel like the lesson come to life. Also, while MJ had been to France many times before, Champagne would be a new territory for both of us, making it all the more memorable to share that first experience side by side.
Back in May, MJ and I floated the idea of meeting up in Champagne, around the time I was fairly certain I’d be cleared to work Burgundy’s harvest in September. As the date drew closer and I found myself buried in work commitments and tasting events, MJ graciously took the reins on planning, something for which I remain deeply grateful, especially as she arranged appointments with many of our favorite producers, ranging from the bigger maison (Maison Ruinart) to the smaller récoltant-manipulant (Domaine Vincey, whose wine we had enjoyed during the tutoring session).
After a redeye flight and two trains from Paris, I arrived in Reims — though at Maison Blanche, two stops short of the city center. A quick Uber ride later, I found myself a delicious breakfast at Boulangerie Paintagruélique, while MJ was en route by car from another part of Paris. Our reunion was met with a warm embrace and an imperative beeline for caffeine, where The Coffee Champ checked all the boxes — proper espresso and matcha, along with plenty of milk alternatives for the lactose challenged like myself.
As caffeine made its way into our veins, MJ found the cutest spot for lunch at Maquis, a Mediterranean menu with focus on seasonal vegetables alongside both meat and vegetarian options. It struck the balance of a light but filling lunch before our afternoon of wine tasting.
With our bellies full, we headed to our first appointment at Champagne Billecart-Salmon in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ with Felicien Michel, chargé of visites and dégustations. As Billecart-Salmon strives for a quality welcome through small groups (with a priority given to professionals as well as loyal clients and partners), I was excited at this opportunity for this “behind the scenes” look at the maison.
Our visit here made for the best start to our three days in Champagne. Though technically a smaller maison, Billecart-Salmon is often called the largest “grower” for its family-owned independence since 1818, now in its seventh generation. With 100 hectares of its own vines and another 300 under long-term contracts, it stands apart from grandes marques absorbed into luxury groups like Moët & Chandon or Veuve Clicquot. Billecart-Salmon was the “Goldilocks” between grower domaines (RM) and grandes maisons (NM), a visit that set the tone for the next two days.
Since we had a jam-packed schedule for the remainder of the trip, we kept it a low-key evening, settling in at our hotel Le Relais du Vigneron in Blancs-Coteaux near Vertus followed by dinner at La P’tite Marotte nearby. This cozy neighborhood watering hole offers a solid menu of Haute-Savoie fare alongside a comprehensive wine list filled with reasonably priced Champagne.
The next morning, we had cappuccinos at the coffee counter of the local tabac with pastries from the boulangerie-pâtisserie around the corner — très français.
Fueled for the day, we drove to Domaine Vincey in Oger to meet winemaker Marine Vincey-Zabarino. In contrast to Billecart-Salmon’s annual production of 1.75–2 million bottles, Domaine Vincey produces just 20,000–30,000 bottles per year. It was fascinating to see such different scales united by the same goal: crafting high-quality sparkling wine through bottle fermentation.
We were able to miraculously get a lunch reservation at Le Restaurant of Hôtel Les Avisés, very much thanks to MJ gently convincing the hotel concierge to squeeze us in a couple weeks prior. Located in Avize in the Côte des Blancs, the hotel is run by Anselme and Corinne Selosse alongside their domaine Jacques Selosse.
The restaurant, led by chef Stéphane Rossillon and his wife Nathalie, offers a single seasonal menu highlighting local produce and a thoughtful wine list. It was the loveliest afternoon ooh-ing and aah-ing over the ambiance and stellar cuisine, all paired with an exquisite bottle of Jacques Selosse NV Substance (base 2016, dég. 2025/01/23).
After lunch, we made it just in time for our Immersive Experience at Leclerc Briant, a two-hour visit through the winery and cellars, complete with an inside look at their innovative winemaking approaches that result in an average annual production of 200,000 bottles per year.
Still riding the high from our magnificent lunch, we were extra chatty, eagerly jotting down notes and swapping first impressions of the visit. Much like learning to live with a partner, traveling with someone is its own kind of dance: equal parts patience, rhythm, and shared curiosity. They say you really get to know someone when you travel together, and lucky for us, we passed the test in Champagne with flying colors (and full glasses). Between meals and sleep, we were either giggling or scheming, with hardly a lull in conversation.
During our private tasting of the maison’s cuvées, we were seated with a couple from Dubai. Noticing our laughter and easy rapport, the woman asked if we were sisters. No surprise that we responded with mutual chuckles. Hands down, the best compliment ever and a great omen for the rest of our trip.
Speaking of shenanigans, after Leclerc Briant, MJ sent us on a mission to find Le Chemin de Chalons, the parcel from which Domaine Vincey crafts their eponymous Grand Cru cuvée. What is it they say — it’s not about the destination but the journey? I only bring this up because we’re still not quite sure where we ended up. Marine said their plot was a little farther away, but that we were closer to Elise Bougy’s vines in Chétillon de Haut. Close enough, I guess?!
After this worthwhile detour, we went straight to dinner at Le Restaurant Alcôve of the Hostellerie de la Briqueterie in Vinay, just a stone’s throw from Épernay. Chef Nawal Rezagui leads the kitchen, bringing influences from her Moroccan heritage and experience in French gastronomy to deliver dishes marked by agility, spice, and refined balance that evolve with the seasons.
We came for the impressive wine list (incidentally highlighted by Star Wine List), which offers many back-vintage options, especially when it comes to Champagne, with pages dedicated to Millésimes from the region’s leading maisons as well as grower Champagne. Because we had just frolicked through Les Chétillons, I spotted a bottle of Robert Moncuit’s 2015 Grand Cru cuvée from that same parcel for us to enjoy with our dinner.
The next day — our last in Champagne 🥲 — was spent almost entirely on the grounds of Maison Ruinart. We decided to go big, opting for La Parenthèse de Fin de Semaine (“The Weekend Interlude”), a half-day immersion into the world of the oldest Champagne maison whose annual production clocks in around 1.7 million bottles (similar to Billecart-Salmon). The experience included an extensive guided tour of 4 Rue des Crayères through the chalk cellars, gardens, and an art exhibition, followed by a five-course gastronomic lunch paired with a tasting of Ruinart cuvées.
After this epic luncheon at Maison Ruinart, we pretty much had to be rolled out of there, for which a quick visit to Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims served as the perfect post-meal jaunt. Established in 1211, the cathedral is a masterpiece of High Gothic architecture and the historic site of French royal coronations.
Severely damaged during World War I, it was later restored and adorned with modern stained-glass windows by artists including Marc Chagall, whose luminous blues and biblical imagery blend harmoniously with the medieval structure. Its soaring design and sculptural unity deeply influenced later Gothic revivals — most notably Notre-Dame de Paris, which drew inspiration from Reims’s verticality, ornamentation, and sense of grandeur.
We made a quick pitstop for an outfit change at the hotel because MJ had arranged for a fun photoshoot back at Maison Ruinart with Clara Martigny Photographie. I don’t love getting my photograph taken (blame the years of awkward school picture day), but Clara and MJ made this session super relaxed.
We chased the good light with photographer Clara Martigny and sampled three by-the-glass pours at The Bar by Ruinart, including Dom Ruinart 2009 Champagne Rosé Brut, Ruinart 2010 Champagne ‘Millésimé’ Brut, and Ruinart NV Champagne ‘Singulier Édition 17’ Brut Nature (2017 base).
We wrapped up this fabulous day with burgers and more Champagne at Sacré Burger. Because we were staying and visiting producers in the Côte des Blancs, much of our time in Champagne naturally centered around Blanc de Blancs: Chardonnay in all its luminous forms. For that reason, we decided to switch things up with a Blanc de Noirs of Pinot Noir from the Côte des Bar — perhaps a fitting prelude to our next Champagne escapade!
After months of dreaming about Champagne, I could hardly believe we’d finally made it to the famed region, packing in three very eventful days. Throughout the trip, MJ often referenced the 2015 animated film Inside Out, gleefully declaring we were “unlocking core memories” together, and I couldn’t have agreed more. Brief as it was, the trip proved deeply enriching for the palate, mind, and soul. MJ was the Joy to my Sadness — the best partner-in-wine for our choreographed “dance” through the Côte de Blancs: one-two, Champagne-chalk-Chardonnay!
To MJ — thank you for always being game for anything and planning this phenomenal adventure. Here’s to unlocking more core memories that we’ll treasure forever. Now, where to next?! 😉
“But the really important ones are here. I don’t want to get too technical, but these are called Core Memories. Each one came from a super important moment in [our lives]…”
—Joy, Inside Out (2015)
THE ITINERARY
Here’s my attempt to chronicle where we visited, ate, and drank while in the Côte des Blancs as well as near Épernay and Reims. Hope it brings to life some of the unforgettable magic from our three days in Champagne. Enjoy!
BILLECART-SALMON
CALLING CARD
Founded in 1818 in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Champagne Billecart-Salmon is independent and family-owned in its 7th generation. It has built a reputation for elegance, precision, and consistency, standing apart from maisons absorbed into luxury groups.
Though officially an NM (négociant-manipulant), Billecart-Salmon owns about 100 hectares of vineyards and sources another 300 hectares under long-term contracts. This deep vineyard connection lends them a “grower ethos” while retaining the scope of a maison.
The house’s calling card is the Rosé Brut, celebrated for its delicate freshness and fine mousse. Prestige cuvées like Nicolas François, Louis Salmon Blanc de Blancs, and the rare single-parcel Clos Saint-Hilaire showcase the maison’s ability to balance tradition, terroir, and refinement.
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: After learning about the family’s history and terroirs, we visited Le Clos Saint-Hilaire, a single, enclosed one-hectare vineyard (a clos) of Pinot Noir in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ planted in 1964. The eponymous cuvée from Billecart-Salmon is a Blanc de Noirs that reflects small scale production, biodynamic practices, minimal dosage, and extended barrel aging, making it one of the most exclusive and storied cuvées in Champagne. Later, we were taken through the various winemaking facilities (including the cask room and cellars), ending at the newly renovated tasting room to sample three different cuvées.
Notable: 2012 Champagne ‘Elisabeth Salmon’ Rosé Brut (dég. 2023/Q1)
Favorite: 2009 Champagne ‘Louis Salmon’ Blanc de Blancs Brut (dég. 2022/Q2)
DOMAINE VINCEY
CALLING CARD
Located in the Grand Cru village of Oger in the Côte des Blancs, winemakers Marine and Quentin Vincey represent the sixth generation of a family deeply rooted in Champagne’s heartland of Chardonnay.
Certified organic since 2019 and embracing biodynamics, Domaine Vincey farms about 7 hectares, with a focus on biodiversity and soil vitality, crafting wines that speak clearly of chalk and terroir.
Marine and Quentin favor wild fermentations, oak barrel vinification, and long lees aging, producing precise, terroir-driven wines that balance richness with minerality.
Their Champagne wines are typically extra brut or brut nature, showcasing a pure, unadorned expression of Côte des Blancs Chardonnay.
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: Starting behind the domaine, Marine took us through Les Gobards to see and taste Chardonnay grapes due for harvest, then guided us through their cuverie (from the pressing room to the cave), while explaining the domaine’s winemaking processes. Afterwards, we tasted their vintage, village-level cuvée (Oger), a single parcel one (Chemin de Châlons), and a unique cuvée made using Champagne must for second fermentation (Endogène, Tirage Au Moût).
Notable: NV Champagne ‘Endogène’ Tirage Au Moût Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature (dég. 2025/05)
Favorite: 2021 Champagne ‘Oger’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature (dég. 2025/05)
CHAMPAGNE LECLERC BRIANT
CALLING CARD
Founded in 1872 in Cumières by Lucien Leclerc, the business relocated to Épernay in 1955 when Bertrand Leclerc and Jacqueline Briant transformed it into a maison de négoce. The maison has long been a pioneer in organic and biodynamic viticulture, as Bertrand began organic practices in the 1960s. Then under his son Pascal, they further deepened its biodynamic commitment.
Today, Leclerc Briant is owned by Mark Nunnelly and Denise Dupré, who acquired the maison in 2012 and revitalized it while preserving its biodynamic roots. The estate’s 14 hectares of organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards are spread across Premier and Grand Cru villages near Épernay, with additional fruit sourced from certified growers.
Under the direction of winemaker Hervé Jestin, a leading voice in biodynamic winemaking, Leclerc Briant continues to experiment with innovative approaches. This includes amphora fermentation and minimal dosage as well as the creation of Abyss, a Champagne aged for over a year 60 meters underwater off the coast of Brittany, resulting in a lineup of vibrant, textural wines that bridge tradition and experimentation.
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: Les Grandes Vacances refers to France’s long summer holiday period, typically from early July to early September, when schools close and many people take extended vacations. During this time, businesses, offices, and even some restaurants or shops may close or operate with limited hours, especially in August.
Because of our trip’s (unfortunate) timing, the only English-speaking option available was the Immersive Experience. While the two-hour tour offered a solid introduction to the maison, it left a bit to be desired for your fellow wine nerds here, as we wanted more chances to geek out on everything. On the other hand, various friends have visited at other times of the year and had wonderful experiences, particularly when booking the Private Experience, a tailor-made tasting led by a dedicated ambassador at the maison, so I would certainly recommend that if time and budget allow.
That said, it was amazing to learn more about the innovations happening here as well as see the various aging vessels up close, including Leclerc Briant’s famed “gold barrel” — a patented 25-liter stainless steel vessel lined with a thin layer of 24-carat gold that is used for experimental fermentations. Designed to explore the metal’s symbolic connection to solar energy within the maison’s biodynamic philosophy, it is one of the only barrels of its kind in the world, reflecting Leclerc Briant’s spirit of innovation and reverence for natural harmony. They made the first-ever wine fermented and aged in a gold barrel in 2021.
Lastly, the maison has several older vintages (dating back to 1964, from what I could see at least!) that can be disgorged via special orders. Now I know what I’ll be considering on my next trip to Champagne…! 👀
Notable: 2019 Champagne ‘Abyss’ Rosé (dég. 2022/07)
Favorite: 2013 Champagne ‘Château d’Avize’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Zéro (dég. 2023/06)
MAISON RUINART
CALLING CARD
Founded in 1729 by Nicolas Ruinart in Reims, Maison Ruinart is recognized as the oldest Champagne house.
Inspired by the visionary monk Dom Thierry Ruinart, the maison quickly gained prominence for its refined, Chardonnay-driven style emphasizing elegance and luminosity.
Its historic chalk cellars (crayères), the ancient Gallo-Roman quarries carved beneath Reims, are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and serve as aging caves for its wines.
Today, Ruinart remains synonymous with finesse and artistry, blending deep heritage with a strong commitment to sustainability and contemporary art collaborations.
HIGHLIGHTS
Experience: I highly recommend a visit to Maison Ruinart for everyone’s first visit to Champagne. Come for the crayères, stay for the Champagne. Seeing its UNESCO-designated chalk caves are worth the trip alone — absolutely incredible to behold. With hospitality at its forefront, I was thoroughly impressed by every aspect of our experience, so you will be taken care of very well at Maison Ruinart for whatever experience you choose, whether it be a curated experience, a visit to the public gardens, or a glass of Champagne at The Bar by Ruinart.
If you’re feeling particularly fancy, The Weekend Interlude is the ultimate treat for a behind-the-scenes tour as well as a spectacular meal paired along generous pours of their many cuvées.
Notable: Ruinart MV Champagne ‘L’Exclusive’ Blanc de Blancs Brut (1993 base blended with 1990, 1988, 1986, & 1985) — 14,000 magnums were released to celebrate the turn of the new millennium with each bottle encased in a silver filigree made and designed by well-known French luxury tableware designer Christofle
Favorite: Ruinart NV Blanc de Blancs (en magnum)
THE FOOD, DRINK, & LODGING
Avize
🏨 BEST WESTERN LE RELAIS DU VIGNERON, Vertus
Experience: Very reasonably price hotel, plus super convenient if you’ll be spending your time tasting in the Côte des Blancs, as it is in a great central location near Vertus. Please note there is no elevator, so you’ll be schlepping luggage up a couple flight of stairs to the rooms on the second floor.
🍽️ LE RESTAURANT at HÔTEL LES AVISÉS, Avize
Experience: Excellent lunch — no notes; not pictured are these semi-salted Bordier crackers I can’t stop thinking about that they served at some point during the meal.
Notable: being able to introduce MJ to the wonders of Jacques Selosse at a relatively reasonable price
Favorite: enjoying dessert al fresco alongside the garden in the hotel’s back patio and just lingering before our next tasting appointmentBottle: Jacques Selosse NV Champagne ‘Substance’ Blanc de Blancs Brut (base 2016, dég. 2025/01/23)
Épernay
🍽️ LE RESTAURANT ALCÔVE at HOSTELLERIE DE LA BRIQUETERIE, Vinay
Experience: Despite a snag in wine service due to a busy dining room, lovely dinner experience here — the fusion between the chef’s Moroccan heritage and her experience with French cuisine had packed the dishes with lots of flavor and gorgeous combinations of ingredients. Wine list proved to be a treasure trove of fun, especially when we were able to snag a bottle made from grapes whose vineyards we had just visited an hour prior.
Notable: croquant d’aubergine (crunchy eggplant with mousse of local hard cheese scented with cumin & basil oil)
Favorite: homard bleu (lobster just roasted with Cœur de Bœuf tomato, apricot condiment, and shell juice)Bottle: Robert Moncuit 2015 Champagne ‘Les Chétillons’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (dég. 2020/03)
Reims
🏨 BEST WESTERN PREMIER HOTEL DE LA PAIX, Reims
Experience: Only downside was we only got to spend one night at this great hotel! Definitely returning here next time I find myself in Champagne, as it was in a great location at the center of Reims. While rooms were a bit tinier than expected, they made an exceptional use of the space.
🍽️ MAQUIS, Reims
Experience: Sometimes the best dining experiences are the ones you stumble upon by chance, and this was no exception. MJ found Maquis, this little Mediterranean gem in Reims when we needed a quick bite before our appointment with Billecart-Salmon on our first day in Champagne. For lunch, they offer a plat du jour for €17.50, with which comes a base of assorted vegetable-/grain-based sides and include a choice of meat or vegetable as the main protein.
Notable: while we did not order any wine, they had a small but excellent selection of bottles displayed on their shelves
Favorite: light but filling lunch of plat du jour featuring bouletttes de boeuf keftas over boulgour aux ognions et herbes, courgettes mijotées colombo et graines de fenouil, & salade verte with tomates fraîches, pickles, et vinaigrette
🍽️ SACRÉ BURGER, Reims
Experience: I will forever dig a solid high-low joint, especially if Champagne is involved. While we were eating quite well in Champagne, it was awesome to have a taste of home by sinking our teeth into a couple of juicy burgers alongside some kickass bubbles!
Notable: ideal final night spot spent with MJ — burgers and Champagne — that had an extensive wine list with nearly eight pages dedicated to grower Champagne
Favorite: going the Blanc de Noirs route after three full days of Chardonnay-centric ChampagneBottle: Salima et Alain Cordeuil 2017 Champagne ‘Altitude 320m’ Brut Nature (dég. 2022/11/22)
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Cheers,
Stefie aka ‘Two Bottle Stef’ 💁🏻♀️✌️🍾
I didn't expect to tear up while reading this...!! 🥹 My heart is bursting with joy and I'm smiling so big now, remembering all our giggles and observations. The magic of it all. Ahhh, what an adventure. Delicious, delightful, and unforgettable in every way, my dearest Stefie. Thank you for sharing your brilliance, insights, good humor, and generosity with me. So glad we are sisters in Champagne 🥂🍾 and wherever we'll go next 🥰🙏🏼 I absolutely cannot wait ✨❤️