Wine Wednesday: Women in Wine
On Wednesdays, we celebrate women in wine (at Perquín).
Adam and I returned this week to another Wine Wednesday night at Perquín, featuring some amazing women in wine — winemakers, growers, sommeliers, all of the above!
March is Women’s History Month, making it the perfect time to raise a glass to the incredible women shaping the world of wine. Despite their growing influence, female winemakers have historically been underrepresented in the industry. By giving a spotlight on their talent, innovation, and leadership, we not only celebrate their contributions, but we also help pave the way for greater equity all around. These pioneering vigneronnes remind us that the best bottles don’t just come from great terroir, but from the passion and vision of those who steward and craft them.
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THE CONCEPT
One of the most influential natural wine importers and distributors in the United States, Zev Rovine Selections represents more than 150 producers in countries ranging from Canada to South Africa, including many talented women in wine.
To showcase a wide range of styles, I opted for wines from five countries with different varietal compositions in an array of colors (white, orange, red) — thanks again for helping me navigate ZRS’s portfolio, Adam! We kicked off with a sparkling rosé pétillant naturel (i.e., sparkling wine made in the ancestral method) from France then headed southeast for an Assyrtiko from Macedonia, Greece. We continued back through the Mediterranean Sea for a Sicilian Grecanico (Garganega), which saw a 13-hour maceration. We returned stateside to Virginia with a co-fermented blend of Blaufränkisch, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cayuga White then concluded with a Spanish Grenache (Garnacha) from Valencia. Outside of the usual five wines, we also featured a bonus white Burgundy from Chablis, available exclusively by the glass or as a flight upgrade.
Featured Women in Wine
ANNE PAILLET, Autour de L’Anne
Winemaker Anne Paillet had spent many years working for a large industrial company in the financial district of Paris before a serious car accident made her realize that corporate life was not for her. She left her job in 2010 to join her husband Gergory Leclerc, a natural winemaker in the Loire, determined to make different wines than he did — different grapes on different terroir.
Consequently, Anne rented about 2.5 hectares of biodynamic vineyards from friend Christophe Beau in Coteaux du Languedoc. She assists with the end of growing season, harvests the grapes on the early side, and guides the fermentations before trucking the wine back up to the Loire in bulk containers to finish them à la Touraine. With the help of Christophe and his son Victor, Autour de L’Anne was born in 2011.
Because she avoids heaviness and high alcohol levels, her style of wines tend to be more similar to wines from the Loire Valley than the Languedoc, preferring lighter, terroir-driven wines. Her Wonder Womanne cuvée is a rosé pétillant naturel — delicate and playful at first from Cinsault then hits with the backbone of depth and power from Syrah and Grenache.
MELISANTHI “MELI” LIGAS, Maison Viticole Ligas
Described as “the mother of wine, where vines abound” since ancient times, the Macedonian region of Pella in northern Greece has been associated with winemaking, playing host to great vineyards with long traditions. Established in 1985 by Thomas Ligas, Ktima Ligas has embraced organic winemaking and permaculture from the outset.
When local varieties were eschewed over international varieties of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, Thomas instead searched far and wide for cuttings of nearly extinct varieties and began his own grafting nursery. In those early days, Thomas had little to spend on winemaking, so he embraced natural methods to achieve his goals. Instead of buying enzymes and yeasts, he simply used longer macerations to naturally extract these elements from the skins of the grapes. In place of pricey sprays, he worked to increase the biodiversity in the his vineyards.
His wines slowly garnered attention and eventually encountered demand that exceeded his production. As a result, the pouplarity of these once-overlooked grapes rose to the point that other Greek winemakers began asking to visit the domaine to take cuttings to propagate their own vines.
The domaine is now entering its second generation, currently led by his daughter Melisanthi “Meli” Ligas. Her entry level Assyrtiko is made with light skin contact, landing somewhere between a white and an orange wine.
MARILINA & FEDERICA PATERNÒ, Cantina Marilina
Angelo Paternò worked for 25 years as the winemaker and technical director for two Sicilian wineries before he bought 60 hectares on a hill in the southeastern province of Siracusa. He eventually handed the reins over to his daughters Marilina and Federica, while still helping them in the winery. Cantina Marilina grows organically as well as favors strict minimal intervention and additives in the cellar, an approach influenced by local natural winemaking master Frank Cornelissen.
Their philosophy embodies absolute respect for the earth. The climate in Sicily is favorable for working with minimal intervention as well as employing traditional winemaking techniques, such as using concrete tanks, drying grapes out it he sun, and extending skin maceration for white wines. Their vineyards are surrounded by UNESCO World Heritage site Val di Noto, which is comprised of eight historic towns in southeastern Sicily. Rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1693 completely destroyed their settlements, Val di Noto successfully carried out a high level of architectural and artistic achievement and now represents the culmination and final flowering of Baroque art in Europe.
Made from hand-picked Garganega (Grecanico) grown in limestone, Cantina Marilina’s Sikelè Bianco undergoes a 13-hour maceration and spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts to be aged for six months in concrete tanks followed by three months in bottle prior to release.
ATHÉNAÏS DE BÉRU, Athénaïs
The de Béru family has owned the historical Château de Béru domaine for 400 years. The domaine used to rely solely on the wine for its revenues until the phylloxera crisis, when all the vines were uprooted at the beginning of the 20th century. It was only in 1987 that the Comte Éric de Béru, out of passion for wine, was determined to replant the entire vineyard, including the renowned Clos Béru.
His wife Laurence and their daughter Athénaïs are now running the domaine, having invested considerable means to improve the production quality and give a fresh start, including the choice to adopt organic and biodynamic farming. Athénaïs is not only the person behind Château de Béru, but also produces her own highly-sought-after wines (under her eponymous label) from grapes she buys from local vineyards in the department of Yonne.
Her Bourgogne [Blanc] Chardonnay features grapes from the town of Saint-Bris within Yonne — all planted in Kimmeridgian clay-limestone at an altitude between 210 and 250 meters. Grapes are hand-harvested, pressed into whole bunches according to a long and gentle cycle, and fermented to be aged for 18 months in stainless steel vats without input.
LEE CAMPBELL, Common Wealth Crush Co.
Founded in 2022, Common Wealth Crush Co. (CWC) is a pioneering custom crush facility located in Virgnia’s Shenandoah Valley. Designed to support small-scale producers, CWC functions as a hybrid of custom crush services, business incubator, and collaborative think tank, aiming to foster the growth of emerging Virginia winemakers by provides hared resources and a platform for innovation.
A sommelier and wine consultant originally from New York City, Lee Campbell is a partner at CWC. With extensive experience in the wine industry, including roles as a sommelier and natural wine advocate, Lee brings a wealth of knowledge and passion to the venture. Her involvement underscores CWC’s commitment to sustainable, low-intervention winemaking practices and the exploration of both European (vitis vinifera) and hybrid grape varieties, reflecting a forward-thinking approach to Virginia’s wine landscape.
CWC’s Family Meal cuvée is comprised of Blaufränkisch (29%), Chenin Blanc (28%), Sauvignon Blanc (26%), and Cayuga White (17%) from vineyards in limestone, sandstone, and shale along the Shenandoah Valley (as far south as Natural Bridge and as far north as Woodstock). A mixture of direct press and de-stemmed berries, grapes were spontaneously co-fermented in fiberglass and bottled unfiltered. Channeling the conviviality and fellowship of both Sunday dinners and restaurant staff meals, this light and bright red is meant to pair with any dish on the table. It satisfies both those seeking a light red or a dark rosé, following the tradition of the food-friendly Cerasuolo wines of Italy’s Abruzzo region but with a distinctive Virginian spin.
MARTA RIBERA, Finca Casa Balaguer
Established in 2008 by winemakers Marta Ribera and Andrés Carull, Finca Casa Balaguer is dedicated to producing authentic wines that reflect the unique terroir of Valencia, Spain. They cultivate indigenous grape varieties across 25 hectares of vineyards of ancient vines situated at varying altitudes, from sea level to 700 meters. Their commitment to minimal intervention winemaking ensures that each bottle captures the essence of their land.
Their wines are aged in a diverse array of vessels, including steel, wood, concrete, and clay — all to preserve the very essence of the terroir. La Rambla del Peligrés is made from hand-harvested Grenache (Garnacha) grapes planted in the eponymous plot that expresses the most Mediterranean side of the variety. Grapes are fermented 50% whole and 50% de-stemmed bunches in small concrete vats then fermented on the skins and stems at room temperature to be lightly pressed and aged for six months until bottling (unfined and unfiltered).
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THEMED FLIGHTS
OPTION No. 1: The Express
Great choice for getting the “highlights” from the full wine offerings. Plus, some agency in your choices of white/orange and of red.
1 × sparkling rosé from France
1 × choice of still white from Greece or still orange from Italy
1 × choice of still red from Virginia or Spain
OPTION No. 2: The Starburst
This flight captures the “starburst” of colors by these European vigneronnes.
1 × sparkling rosé from France
1 × still white from Greece
1 × still orange from Italy
OPTION No. 3: The Hearth
For those wanting to discover the breadth of red grape varieties, this red-focused flight lets you explore this across three different climates and countries.
1 × sparkling rosé from France
1 × still red from Virginia
1 × still red from Spain
OPTION No. 4: The Full Monty
Completionists will appreciate this option to try ’em all!
1 × sparkling rosé from France
1 × still white from Greece
1 × still orange from Italy
1 × still red from Virginia
1 × still red from Spain
BONUS: Flight Upgrade
We were able to snag the last bottles of an already limited allocation that we featured as a flight upgrade and exclusively offered by-the-glass.
1 × still white from France
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THE MENU
Need to remind myself to take more food photos next time. I enjoyed the pollo chuco, a classic staple at Perquín. Highly recommend!
THE WINEUP
/ March 19, 2025 @ Perquín, Jersey City /
Autour de L’Anne 2022 Vin de France Rosé ‘Wonder Womanne’
Zev Rovine Selections (New York) | 🇫🇷 sparkling rosé
Cinsault / Syrah / Grenache
raspberry Sweetarts ・ Diana Henry’s wine・ roses are red, violets are blue
Maison Viticole Ligas 2022 Assyrtiko Macedonia
Zev Rovine Selections (New York) | 🇬🇷 still white
Assyrtiko
passionfruit pulp ・ laser-sharp acidity ・ soft salinity
BONUS: Athénaïs 2022 Bourgogne [Blanc] ‘Chardonnay’
Zev Rovine Selections (New York) | 🇫🇷 still white
Chardonnay
Kimmeridgian knockout ・ Saint-Bris breeze ・ seashells & lemon curd
Cantina Marilina 2022 Terre Siciliane ‘Sikelè’ Bianco
Zev Rovine Selections + SelectioNaturel (New York) | 🇮🇹 still orange
Garganega (Grecanico)
mango tea ・ orange wine 101 ・ gingery citrus
Common Wealth Crush Co. 2023 ‘Family Meal’ Red
Zev Rovine Selections (New York) | 🇺🇸 still red
Blaufränkisch / Chenin Blanc / Sauvignon Blanc / Cayuga White
chill & crush ・ convivial co-ferment ・ Virginian victory
Finca Casa Balaguer 2020 ‘La Rambla del Peligrés’
Zev Rovine Selections + Selections de la Viña (New York) | 🇪🇸 still red
Grenache (Garnacha)
juicy energy ・ eucalyptus & thyme ・sour blackberry
THE CODA
As a woman in wine myself, what an opportunity it was to showcase some amazing women in wine from all over the world, making for another fine collaboration with Adam and Bryan, made possible by Perquín’s badass team (shoutout to JP for manning the bar solo tonight), familiar faces (much love to my Jersey City wine crew 🫶), as well as new folks — all opting to spend an almost-spring evening with us and being open to trying new wines. Once again, guests were very receptive of what we were trying to do for Wine Wednesday at Perquín, with enthusiastic feedback over our selections, flight format, and pairing inspirations, especially celebrating these accomplished women winemakers. The soulfulness of these wines meshed beautifully with the vibrant energy of Perquín as well as with Bryan’s awesome menu.
March can be a time to be celebrating the incredible contributions of women in wine, as their dedication, innovation, and craftsmanship have shaped the wine world in remarkable ways. Although Women’s History Month offers a chance to highlight their achievements, our support and recognition should extend far beyond just one month. By championing women in wine year-around (through awareness, mentorship, and conscious consumer choices), we can help foster a more inclusive and diverse industry that thrives on talent, passion, and progress. Looking forward to continuing these efforts during future Wine Wednesdays at Perquín — hope to see you there next month!
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Cheers,
Stefie aka ‘Two Bottle Stef’ 💁🏻♀️✌️🍾